Kim continues on with the CME Mystery Sew Along. I’m sure the mystery is growing more familiar. I love adding pockets to anything-dresses, pants, bags, whatever! And a small interior pocket for this project is no exception. This post will focus on creating an easy welt pocket and constructing the lining. You can also take this welt pocket technique and use it on another project. This technique is simpler than a traditional welt pocket, but looks just as good.
Position the back-lining panel right side up on a flat work surface. Fold the interior pocket in half widthwise with right sides together, and then unfold. With right sides together, position the pocket over the back-lining panel, aligning the pocket foldline with the lower pocket line on the back-lining panel; pin.
Stitch along the rectangle on the back-lining panel wrong side.
Position the back-lining panel right side up on a flat work surface. Using small sharp scissors, cut through the rectangle center lengthwise, stopping 1/4” from the short ends. Cut diagonally from the line end up to, but not through the rectangle corners.
Push the pocket through the opening toward the back lining wrong side. Pull the small triangle on the sides to straighten the rectangle.
Press the pocket flat.
Position the back lining wrong side up on a flat work surface. Create a 3/8”-wide pleat on the pocket to cover the rectangle.
Below you can see the side view of the pocket and see the pleat that covers the rectangle opening.
Machine baste just the folded edge, and then whipstitch the fold to the pocket.
Below you can see a detail image of the machine basting securing the fold in place and the whipstitch that secures the fold to the upper pocket.
Position the back-lining panel right side up. Fold the lower edge toward the upper edge, exposing the lower seam allowance. Stitch through the seam allowance as close as possible to the previous stitching line.
Position the pocket wrong side up. With right sides together, fold the pocket in half widthwise and aligning all the edges; pin.
Position the back-lining panel right side up. Fold the right short edge toward the opposite short edge to expose the pocket right edge.
Stitch from the pocket folded upper edge around the perimeter and ending at the opposite folded edge, making sure to stitch over small triangle stitching line, but not catching the back-lining panel in the stitching. .
Below is a detail image of the stitching line that goes over the small triangle.
Remove the basting stitches from the pocket.
Below is a detail image of the pocket opening. The pleat made in the pocket creates the welt.
With right sides together, stitch the front lining lower edge to the base lining long edge. Press the seam allowances toward the base. Repeat to stitch the back lining lower edge to the opposite base long edge, but leave a 8”-long centered opening for turning.
Position one side-lining panel over the back-lining panel right edge with right sides together; pin. Stitch, beginning at the side-lining panel upper edge and ending the stitching with the needle in the down position at the corner dot. Using small sharp scissors, cut diagonally into just the side panel up to, but not through the corner at the dot. Lift the presser foot, pivot the side panel to align the side lower edge with the base short edge. Continue stitching, pivoting at the opposite side-panel dot and ending at the side-panel upper edge.
Press the seam allowance toward the side panel. Repeat to stitch the remaining side panel to the left bag edge.
In the next post, attach the lining, add topstitch detailing and install the zipper. Don’t forget to enter into the Sweepstakes, going on now!
Big Duck Canvas Warehouse provided the 15-ounce navy blue duck fabric: (800) 704-6138, bigduckcanvas.com.