Finally, Part 3 of the Mystery Sew Along! Kim has been monitoring the comments and looks like we’re moving along. I’m sure some of you have already guessed what it is.
In this post we’ll finish constructing the exterior to get ready for the lining.
Position one handle tab wrong side up on a flat work surface. Place fusible tape to each tab short edge; fuse following the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the paper backing. Fold each edge 1/4” toward the wrong side; press.
Place fusible tape to each raw edge; fuse. Fold each raw edge toward the wrong side to meet in the tab center; press.
Fold the tab in half widthwise with wrong sides together; press. Insert one D-ring through the tab and align the tab ends. Hand baste close to the D-ring. Position the front panel right side up on a flat work surface. Align the handle tab upper edge with one handle placement line; pin, and then hand baste.
Repeat to create and baste the remaining three handle tabs to the front and back panel. Topstitch 1/8” from the tab short end, back stitching over the entire tab for extra security.
Repeat to stitch the remaining handle tabs on the front and back panels.
Remove the handle tab basting stitches.
With right sides together, position the interior band with the upper-front panel upper edge; pin. Stitch the band short end, beginning at the lower dot, and pivoting just before the upper dot diagonally for two stitches. Continue stitching the long edge, and repeat to pivot at the right upper dot. End the stitching at the right lower dot.
Trim the interior-band seam allowance to 1/8” and the front seam allowance 1/4” on the upper edge. Trim the corners. Repeat to stitch the remaining interior band to the upper-back panel. With right sides together, stitch the back-panel lower edge to one base long edge
Press the seam allowance toward the base. Repeat to stitch the opposite base long edge to the front lower edge. Topstitch the base 1/8” from each seamline.
Finger-press the front interior-band lower edge 1/2” toward the wrong side; pin.
Position one side long edge and front right edge with right sides together, aligning the side-panel upper dot with the interior band folded edge; pin.
Stitch, beginning at the side upper edge dot, making sure to not catch the interior band in the stitching. End the stitching with the needle in the down position at the second dot. Using small sharp scissors, cut diagonally into just the side panel up to, but not through the corner at the dot.
Lift the presser foot, pivot the side panel to align the side lower edge with the base short edge.
Continue stitching, pivoting at the opposite side-panel dot and ending at the side-panel upper edge dot.
Press seam allowance toward the side panel. Repeat to stitch the remaining side panel to the left bag edge.
Trim the interior band to 1/4” on each short end and trim corners.
Turn the back interior band right side out, pushing the corners with a point turner.
Press flat. Repeat for the front interior band.
Press one zipper-panel long edge 1/2” toward the wrong side. Press each short end 1/2” toward the wrong side. Repeat to press a second zipper panel.
Repeat to press the remaining zipper panels. Position two zipper panels with wrong sides together, making sure the folded long and short ends are aligned. Baste using a 1/4” seam allowance along the short and long folded edges. Designate the zipper panel with the interfacing as the upper zipper panel.
Center the zipper panel over the front interior band long edge, aligning the upper zipper panel with the interior band; pin. Baste using a 1/4” seam allowance.
Repeat to baste the remaining zipper panel with the back interior band. Turn the bag right side out.
In the next post you’ll learn how to create a easy interior welt pocket and construct the lining.
Don’t forget to enter into the CME 15th Anniversary Sweepstakes!
Big Duck Canvas Warehouse provided the 15-ounce navy blue duck fabric: (800) 704-6138, bigduckcanvas.com.